- 2016-02-18 at 08:48 #111Paul CarterKeymaster
RPM Electronics has offered the following deal (all taxes included in prices)
DR650GW-2CH installed: Regular Price: $ 683
5 members: $650
10 members: $616
The dashcams by themselves are on sale for $ 504.
If you are interested in the group buy, please contact Paul Carter. Once we reach a group of 5 or 10 we can arrange the buy with RPM.
President | Vancouver Chapter Member | Tesla Model X | Tesla Model 3 | Zero S2016-02-19 at 15:10 #130Dan BowditchParticipant
I bought a brand new DR650GW-2CH on eBay for CAD $380 about 3 months ago but haven’t installed it yet. I will talk to RPM to see if they will install it for me. Thanks for the info.2016-02-19 at 15:24 #131Paul CarterKeymaster
@Dan: That was a good deal you got! Prices seem a lot higher now that the exchange rate is so poor from what I can see.
President | Vancouver Chapter Member | Tesla Model X | Tesla Model 3 | Zero S2016-02-19 at 18:52 #136Dan BowditchParticipant
@Paul: I lucked out for once. The guy selling it was from Whistler and I was the only bidder when it closed at his starting price. I think he had bought a few in a bulk deal and that was the last one he was trying to sell.2016-02-19 at 19:53 #138
This is very tempting… I’ll watch to see how much interest you get and perhaps I’ll allow peer pressure to do its thing!2016-02-20 at 20:59 #141Chris BabcockParticipant
Hello, definitely interested in the group buy2016-03-14 at 23:14 #243Hugo WongParticipant
Put me down for one too.2016-03-15 at 00:18 #247Stephen ChowParticipant
If we can get ten that would be great. Put me in for both my Model S’s. I’m assuming they tap into the rearview mirror for a 12V power supply. I’m tired of charging my batteries and changing them out of my GoPros.2016-03-15 at 09:09 #248
I purchased/installed a Blackvue 650 over a year ago, so I don’t need one. But if anyone is interested in doing a self-install and would like any thoughts or assistance, I’d be happy to lend a hand.
I used the installation notes from the TMC forum (which I copied and pasted into a MS word file), then made a few small modifications to the procedure to minimize the amount of cutting/drilling needed.2016-03-15 at 10:51 #260
Ken, do you have a pano roof? And curious, did you find power at the mirror or hide a cable from elsewhere?2016-03-15 at 12:19 #263
Yes, pano roof. Which makes the cable routing to the rear waaaaay easier!
I bought a cable from amazon to plug into the CAN bus port. Lopped one end off the cable and tapped into the 12VDC and ground from there. Also, I got the kit with power magic pro box, which I attached underneath the cubby. I was pretty much able to get all cable routing done without any cutting or drilling save one hole at the rear hatch.
FYI, the 650 2 channel with 16 GB media and power magic is on sale right now at blackboxmycar for $449.99.2016-03-15 at 12:39 #264
Interesting. Where did you intercept the CAN bus? Down in the center cubby area? I assume that the power on the CAN bus is live all the time, thus the power magic pro box?
The power magic box makes me wonder how you configured the cutoff. In an ICE, the voltage jumps from 12 volts to 13.5 or 14 when the engine is running. Does the Tesla 12 volt circuit jump up when the car is powered on as well? Or are you configuring it to shut things down when the small 12 volt battery starts to show serious discharge?
I assume your camera is powered down when the car is parked, therefore you wouldn’t catch a hit and run while parked for instance.2016-03-15 at 13:21 #266
There’a a CAN bus port on the side, just above where the dead pedal for driver’s left foot. I just bought a cable with connectors. These are hard to find!! Had to order from some Chinese company – something like 6 weeks delivery. So with this setup, it is quite literally plugged into the car.
For the PMP, there are actually two cutoff modes that work in parallel – one based on battery voltage, ie., if voltage is below 11.8 or 12.0 volts (selectable), the PMP cuts power to the camera. The second cutoff is time-based, using one of 8 selectable running times until shutoff. I think I set mine to 24 hours. This second mode means you need a direct battery power connection as well as an accessory “swtiched” source, which I tapped from the USB/accessory plug power.
From what I measured, battery voltage stays above 12 volts when the car is off, so it would only decay below 12.0 if the little accessory battery is dying (and not getting a recharge from the main battery).
So the answer is … I do get continuous recording after car is off for up to 24 hours. This covers most of my own parking scenarios!2016-03-15 at 14:09 #269
So if I understand this correctly, you have a cable running from the dead pedal area across to the cubby. The cubby (or just under) has the PMP unit. A voltage detect wire also runs to the PMP, but from the console USB area (are you using a USB plug or did you go in behind and tap in directly?).
From the PMP you route the power cable up to the rearview mirror area and the main camera unit (the hardest part?). The rear camera presumably runs above the headliner around the edge of the pano roof and meets the main unit at the mirror. Is that about right?
So all in all, what sort of skill level would you say is needed to do this and – at the risk of being insulting 😉 – did it come out looking clean and invisible? I don’t know exactly how the installation method Paul has lined up would compare, but I’m curious as it sounds like you’ve added some features that might be worth considering.2016-03-15 at 16:01 #273
Generally, the routing you describe is correct. I tapped into the switched power feed to the USB and accessory plugs, which is under the plastic that covers the center console area. The power cable from the CAN plug to the center console is “visible”, but hung underneath the dash area so you’d have to stick your head under the steering wheel to actually see it.
Coax cable from the PMP to the front camera runs back into that area behind the touch screen, over to passenger side, and up to A-pillar all hidden in the available housings. All the plastic housings around the floor, console and yacht floor are super easy to remove without risk of breaking plastic or clips.
In order to avoid drilling, I left a tiny (less than 6″) length of the coax visible from the extreme right of the dash before it runs into the A-pillar cover. This is so close to invisible that you have to know it’s there and really look for it to see it. It’s a black cable tucked into a small seam between two black plastic dash sections. Once into the A-pillar, it’s a fairly easy run through to the mirror housing. It was a bit tough to pull the mirror housing off – I did crack one clip but it fits back together with no looseness or loss of function (lesson learned – gentle gentle gentle with these bits!). The main thing with running along the A-pillar (VERY IMPORTANT) is to be absolutely sure that the new cable does not interfere with the airbag’s deployment path.
The coax run to the rear was pretty easy, except for the part where you need to run through the gromment/flex tube between the rear hatch frame and the hatch. Verrrrrry tight fit, but with a lot of patience it does get through. I did drill one hole at the hatch, as it would have been very difficult without doing so.
As to skill level, I’d say that if you understand basic electrical circuits and have a lot of patience to do it neatly and fish the cables through the tough spots, it’s not that tough. There are two sections where cable runs very close to airbags, so very important to have a sense of how they deploy so that your cable does not interfere with them.
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